So I decided to install Nvidia nTune (v5.05) on my Windows 7 x64 install.
REALLY bad idea !
The install process went fine but launching the shortcuts did nothing
and loading the control panel applet via the desktop context menu
would cause a BSOD and an automatic reboot.
So obviously the next task at hand was to remove the crap from my PC.
Turns out this is a fairly common problem.
I've seen people online saying use the uninstall option from the
"Programs and Features" section in the control panel, BUT
there is NO entry listed for nTune after installing to remove !
Next thing i tried was searching for a newer version and installing
that over top of the v5.05 ntune installation..
What i found was that 5.05 is the newest version (Oct 30th 2007)
But there is a replacement for ntune from nvidia that is designed
to offer the same functionality plus more as the older ntune.
So.. I tried to install over the old ntune "Nvidia System Tools"
It would fail with some message about a previous version being
installed and saying that it would need to be removed first etc..
This may all seem a bit long winded so far,
but I did figure out a way to properly remove the old nTune software
AND installed the newer version "Nvidia System Tools"
Which like nTune adds more options into the nvidia control panel.
Tested on 64bit Windows 7 with the 296.10 nvidia graphics driver.
OK so back to the nTune uninstall issue..
I had a look at removing the package manually but the idea is dumb.
It leaves crap scattered on every conceivable place on your OS.
I wouldn't advise doing that unless its a last resort..
So this is what i did..
I reinstalled nTune v5.05 in compatibility mode for Windows XP SP3
There should now be a visible entry in the "Programs and Features" menu.
Run the remove option from the "nTune" entry.
Note: no reboot was needed.
I checked around my machine and everything was removed except
a few installer related registry entries which is no big deal.
So the next thing is integration with the current GPU driver.
Its worth pointing out i never install the extra stuff.
For example the last few gpu driver releases have been bundled with
an Nvidia system updater component, this may conflict with nTune ?
I did some comparisons with "Nvidia System Tools" 6.06 and 6.08
And almost every file was a binary exact match the only real difference
between the two packages is the older v6.06 installs its own update tool.
Inside the 6.06 package is a directory called "SystemUpdate"
with an installer etc.. This was removed in version 6.08.
I'm guessing it was removed because of the updater being integrated
into the graphics card driver releases ?
Anyway, if people use the updater and want to experiment with things
here is the link to the OLD version 6.06 "Nvidia System Tools"
I'm not using that one and it may cause problems with the current GPU drivers.
Nvidia System Tools with ESA Support v6.06 (2010.04.09)
This a link to the official driver wizard page (English)
To get the current graphics card driver (or check for updates)
Nvidia Drivers
Here is the nTune / System Tools package i used
Nvidia System Tools with ESA Support v6.08 (2011.12.19)
I posted this topic hoping other people out there may see what i did
to fix my remove ntune on windows 7 uninstall problem.
I noticed there is a lot of topics posted on the net about this
and i found ALL of them to be useless.
People may think I'm a noob overclocker or something but
I've had my current PC oc'd 24hrs a day for like 7/8 years or so..
And I ALWAYS do my work in the BIOS.
So my advice to people is yeah go ahead and play with the program
but do your overclocking in the bios ;)
The main reason i wanted to install nTune is i knew it could show me
a lot more motherboard voltages than Aida64 does.
Its also good for other info such as a list of your current memory timings.
The main feature nvidia advertises is overclocking without having to reboot into the bios. Note: it also overclocks your supported graphics card. And has many other features such as fan control and profile support.
I usually use the (now deprecated) 2.xx version EVGA Precision
to overclock my graphics card. Which has been redesigned / rebuilt
and is now called "EVGA Precision X" and has a v3.xx build #
I've heard a lot of good things about MSI Afterburner
which has gpu overclocking abilities as well as better voltage
modification support compared to Precision. Havn't used it it though..
Also my favorite stress testing application for testing an overclock
is LinX a GUI for the Intel(R) Math Kernel Library Linpack Benchmark.
Saturday, 7 April 2012
Sunday, 3 July 2011
Airlink AWLH6075 Wifi PCI Card Issues & Fix
I'll start off by saying i bought this pci wifi card and struggled with
performance issues on Windows XP x64 and after doing a clean install
of Windows 7 Ultimate x64 with different drivers i had the same problem.
The problem was lag and stuttering slow downs in Explorer, basicly
if had Firefox open and my connection strength was fairly low i would
experience hitching / lags that would freeze up the whole operating system
EXTREMELY irritating to say the least !
The main issue was if the internet connection was weak and i was using
the internet with various programs like uTorrent or Firefox i was getting
stuttering that froze explorer and anything running basicly
The solution was to install the drivers from the company that made
the chipset Ralink http://www.ralinktech.com/support.php
The needed driver should be at the top of the list with a similar
model number.
Once i installed these Ralink drivers instead of the Airlink drivers
any hitching / lag issues vanished and never came back.
Note the driver cd that came with the card contains the same version
of drivers that are currently found on the Airlink web site.
Here is the link to the Airlink driver download page..
http://www.airlink101.com/download/awlh6075.php
performance issues on Windows XP x64 and after doing a clean install
of Windows 7 Ultimate x64 with different drivers i had the same problem.
The problem was lag and stuttering slow downs in Explorer, basicly
if had Firefox open and my connection strength was fairly low i would
experience hitching / lags that would freeze up the whole operating system
EXTREMELY irritating to say the least !
The main issue was if the internet connection was weak and i was using
the internet with various programs like uTorrent or Firefox i was getting
stuttering that froze explorer and anything running basicly
The solution was to install the drivers from the company that made
the chipset Ralink http://www.ralinktech.com/support.php
The needed driver should be at the top of the list with a similar
model number.
Once i installed these Ralink drivers instead of the Airlink drivers
any hitching / lag issues vanished and never came back.
Note the driver cd that came with the card contains the same version
of drivers that are currently found on the Airlink web site.
Here is the link to the Airlink driver download page..
http://www.airlink101.com/download/awlh6075.php
Saturday, 2 July 2011
Windows 7 x64 Uknown Device (Code 43)
This seems to be a large problem out there and unfortunately i have no solution.
Also i did NOT have this problem on windows xp x86 or x64 previously.
I have plenty of USB devices and they all work perfectly fine on any port.
I also cleaned the motherboard two times once with dish soap
and another time with isopropenyl alcohol (with q tips)
In case there was any foreign debre creating a short on the mobo.
I also cleaned and inspected inside the usb port plugs, some people
have reported bent pins or garbage in there causing a problem.
Also tried re installing the usb controllers many times to no avail..
In case anyone is wondering if i have a Bad psu ? I use Aida64 to monitor
my voltages against what my bios reports and have used a Multimeter
to measure the voltage on my rails and there is no problem
Some people on the net have reported that unplugging their power supply
and discharging their computer helped because of a Capacitor issue
but this doesn't do me any good..
I have an Evga 680i SLI motherboard on Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
I'd love to hear from anyone that has a solution to this phantom device issue
Nirsoft - USBDeview (Freeware) can show some handy USB data
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
Also i did NOT have this problem on windows xp x86 or x64 previously.
I have plenty of USB devices and they all work perfectly fine on any port.
I also cleaned the motherboard two times once with dish soap
and another time with isopropenyl alcohol (with q tips)
In case there was any foreign debre creating a short on the mobo.
I also cleaned and inspected inside the usb port plugs, some people
have reported bent pins or garbage in there causing a problem.
Also tried re installing the usb controllers many times to no avail..
In case anyone is wondering if i have a Bad psu ? I use Aida64 to monitor
my voltages against what my bios reports and have used a Multimeter
to measure the voltage on my rails and there is no problem
Some people on the net have reported that unplugging their power supply
and discharging their computer helped because of a Capacitor issue
but this doesn't do me any good..
I have an Evga 680i SLI motherboard on Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
I'd love to hear from anyone that has a solution to this phantom device issue
Nirsoft - USBDeview (Freeware) can show some handy USB data
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
Windows 7 - File/Folder Rename/Delete Problem & Fix
After installing windows 7 a while back i killed some services..
2 months later i was struggling with a random file delete / rename problem.
Turns out the solution (for me) was to RE enable the service
Application Experience
It turns out killing this service causes problems i guess
hope this helps someone out there it took me forever to figure this out !
2 months later i was struggling with a random file delete / rename problem.
Turns out the solution (for me) was to RE enable the service
Application Experience
It turns out killing this service causes problems i guess
hope this helps someone out there it took me forever to figure this out !
Thursday, 23 June 2011
Diamond - ATI TV Wonder HD 750 - PC TV Tuner Card Info
As the topic suggests this is a post about a TV Tuner card i bought a while back..
It was cheap and it came with a remote and software / driver cd.
The software for watching live tv was not that great and i soon went looking for an alternative
Supposedly NPVR works with this card but i couldn't get it to work so i ended
up just going with Windows Media Center. The one drawback of WMC compared
to the included "Total Media" that is on the driver cd is that WMC buffers all Live TV
to your hard drive before displaying it and Total Media bypasses that and just shows it.
Aside from some random stability issues i have to say i like Windows Media Center.
Media Center Studio is a free tool i found that can modify WMC and add Custom theme support.
Anyway I have read on the net that my tv card does NOT work with WMC.
This is NOT true.
When you install this card on XP there is no default driver and on Windows 7
there is a driver that will be auto installed through Windows Update.
This windows update driver is bad !
It doesn't work and sometime will fail at installing.
The solution is simple install the driver that came on the CD
or go to the Diamond website and download it from there.
The website driver is the same as the one on the disc. (DriverVer=09/01/2009, 6.14.10.38901)
There is another driver that can be installed and used as well from ATI
As of this writing the Ati Catalyst v10.4 is the current version.
The main issue between these drivers is the remote control support.
The Diamond driver WILL setup the remote fairly well but many buttons
will not work or do random things. And the ATI remote driver seems worse.
What is needed is to figure out how the remote works with windows.
No problem..
I figured it all out and got it working. I also got a Universal Remote working too.
The following Registry script can be executed after installing your drivers
Note you must reboot for changes to take effect.
Save the following as a .reg file and double click it to enter the info into
the windows registry. It can also be edited and clicked again if somebody
wanted to change what buttons do what. Please see notes in script for info..
IMPORTANT:
The hardware ID is going to have to be found for your device and edited
in the script. My ID is 5&2fe700dd&1&0 yours will be different probably
Easiest way to find your ID may be to use the device Manager and look
at the driver details or just search in the registry for it (search for AVStream)
Once again, change the location of the registry key in the code below !
[START]
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\AVStream\CIR\5&2fe700dd&1&0\Device Parameters]
"DictSrc"=dword:00000001
"IrProtocol"=dword:00000060
"DictData"=hex:01, \ ; Dictionary length: 1 set
61, \ ; Philips RC5 ModeA (0x61)
00, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ; Header:
39, \ ; table length: 57 key remote = hex:0x39
00, 00,00,00, 27, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 0
01, 00,00,00, 1E, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 1
02, 00,00,00, 1F, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 2
03, 00,00,00, 20, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 3
04, 00,00,00, 21, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 4
05, 00,00,00, 22, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 5
06, 00,00,00, 23, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 6
07, 00,00,00, 24, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 7
08, 00,00,00, 25, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 8
09, 00,00,00, 26, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 9
0A, 00,00,00, 41, 00, 01, 00, \ ; Mute (F8)
0b, 00,00,00, 16, F3, 01, 00, \ ; Stop (CTRL+SHIFT+S)
0C, 00,00,00, 0D, 00, 08, 00, \ ; Open WMC / Start Screen (WIN+ALT+ENTER)
0D, 00,00,00, 28, 00, 01, 00, \ ; OK / Chanel Recall (ENTER)
0E, 00,00,00, B5, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Snapshot = Skip Forward (CTRL+F)
0F, 00,00,00, 28, F4, 01, 00, \ ; Full screen (ALT+ENTER)
10, 00,00,00, 4F, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Right (RIGHT ARROW)
11, 00,00,00, 50, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Left (LEFT ARROW)
12, 00,00,00, 2e, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Channel Up (PAGE DOWN)
13, 00,00,00, 2d, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Channel Down (PAGE UP)
14, 00,00,00, 10, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Shuffle = My Music (CTRL+M)
15, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
16, 00,00,00, 13, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Pause (CTRL+P)
17, 00,00,00, 13, F3, 01, 00, \ ; Play (CTRL+SHIFT+P)
18, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
19, 00,00,00, B3, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Fast Forward (CTRL+SHIFT+F)
1A, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1B, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1C, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1D, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1E, 00,00,00, 08, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Timeshift = My Video (CTRL+E)
1F, 00,00,00, 15, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Record (CTRL+R)
20, 00,00,00, 52, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Up (UP ARROW)
21, 00,00,00, 51, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Down (DOWN ARROW)
22, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
23, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
24, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
25, 00,00,00, 82, 00, 04, 00, \ ; Power Off / Sleep (SLEEP)
26, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
27, 00,00,00, B4, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Rewind (CTRL+SHIFT+B)
28, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
29, 00,00,00, 2a, 00, 01, 00, \ ; Back (ESC/BACKSPACE)
2A, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
2B, 00,00,00, 43, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Volume Down (F9)
2C, 00,00,00, 42, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Volume Up (F10)
2D, 00,00,00, B6, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Pointer = Skip Back (CTRL+B)
2E, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
2F, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
30, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
31, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
32, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
33, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
34, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
35, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
36, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
37, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
38, 00,00,00, 17, F1, 01, 00 ; AV/TV = Live TV (CTRL+T)
"Custom Key Mapping"="57 Key Table"
"Driver Source"="ATI Catalyst v10.4"
"Registration"="Micuesoft"
; NOTES:
;
; 04 = My Radio (CTRL+A)
; 07 = My Movies (CTRL+D)
; 08 = My Videos (CTRL+E)
; 0A = TV Guide (CTRL+G)
; 0C = My Pictures (CTRL+I)
; 10 = My Music (CTRL+M)
; 17 = My TV (CTRL+T)
;
; Byte 1|8 = Remote Button
; Byte 2|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 3|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 4|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 5|8 = Command Code
; Byte 6|8 = Modifier (F1 = CTRL+ ?) (F3 = CTRL+SHIFT+ ?)
; Byte 7|8 = Modifier
; Byte 8|8 = Modifier (Command Type ?)
;
; This Page has technical info on remote command data.
; "Using Remote Control Input Outside of Windows Media Center"
; http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb417079.aspx
[END]
It was cheap and it came with a remote and software / driver cd.
The software for watching live tv was not that great and i soon went looking for an alternative
Supposedly NPVR works with this card but i couldn't get it to work so i ended
up just going with Windows Media Center. The one drawback of WMC compared
to the included "Total Media" that is on the driver cd is that WMC buffers all Live TV
to your hard drive before displaying it and Total Media bypasses that and just shows it.
Aside from some random stability issues i have to say i like Windows Media Center.
Media Center Studio is a free tool i found that can modify WMC and add Custom theme support.
Anyway I have read on the net that my tv card does NOT work with WMC.
This is NOT true.
When you install this card on XP there is no default driver and on Windows 7
there is a driver that will be auto installed through Windows Update.
This windows update driver is bad !
It doesn't work and sometime will fail at installing.
The solution is simple install the driver that came on the CD
or go to the Diamond website and download it from there.
The website driver is the same as the one on the disc. (DriverVer=09/01/2009, 6.14.10.38901)
There is another driver that can be installed and used as well from ATI
As of this writing the Ati Catalyst v10.4 is the current version.
The main issue between these drivers is the remote control support.
The Diamond driver WILL setup the remote fairly well but many buttons
will not work or do random things. And the ATI remote driver seems worse.
What is needed is to figure out how the remote works with windows.
No problem..
I figured it all out and got it working. I also got a Universal Remote working too.
The following Registry script can be executed after installing your drivers
Note you must reboot for changes to take effect.
Save the following as a .reg file and double click it to enter the info into
the windows registry. It can also be edited and clicked again if somebody
wanted to change what buttons do what. Please see notes in script for info..
IMPORTANT:
The hardware ID is going to have to be found for your device and edited
in the script. My ID is 5&2fe700dd&1&0 yours will be different probably
Easiest way to find your ID may be to use the device Manager and look
at the driver details or just search in the registry for it (search for AVStream)
Once again, change the location of the registry key in the code below !
[START]
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Enum\AVStream\CIR\5&2fe700dd&1&0\Device Parameters]
"DictSrc"=dword:00000001
"IrProtocol"=dword:00000060
"DictData"=hex:01, \ ; Dictionary length: 1 set
61, \ ; Philips RC5 ModeA (0x61)
00, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ; Header:
39, \ ; table length: 57 key remote = hex:0x39
00, 00,00,00, 27, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 0
01, 00,00,00, 1E, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 1
02, 00,00,00, 1F, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 2
03, 00,00,00, 20, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 3
04, 00,00,00, 21, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 4
05, 00,00,00, 22, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 5
06, 00,00,00, 23, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 6
07, 00,00,00, 24, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 7
08, 00,00,00, 25, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 8
09, 00,00,00, 26, 00, 01, 01, \ ; 9
0A, 00,00,00, 41, 00, 01, 00, \ ; Mute (F8)
0b, 00,00,00, 16, F3, 01, 00, \ ; Stop (CTRL+SHIFT+S)
0C, 00,00,00, 0D, 00, 08, 00, \ ; Open WMC / Start Screen (WIN+ALT+ENTER)
0D, 00,00,00, 28, 00, 01, 00, \ ; OK / Chanel Recall (ENTER)
0E, 00,00,00, B5, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Snapshot = Skip Forward (CTRL+F)
0F, 00,00,00, 28, F4, 01, 00, \ ; Full screen (ALT+ENTER)
10, 00,00,00, 4F, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Right (RIGHT ARROW)
11, 00,00,00, 50, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Left (LEFT ARROW)
12, 00,00,00, 2e, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Channel Up (PAGE DOWN)
13, 00,00,00, 2d, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Channel Down (PAGE UP)
14, 00,00,00, 10, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Shuffle = My Music (CTRL+M)
15, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
16, 00,00,00, 13, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Pause (CTRL+P)
17, 00,00,00, 13, F3, 01, 00, \ ; Play (CTRL+SHIFT+P)
18, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
19, 00,00,00, B3, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Fast Forward (CTRL+SHIFT+F)
1A, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1B, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1C, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1D, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
1E, 00,00,00, 08, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Timeshift = My Video (CTRL+E)
1F, 00,00,00, 15, F1, 01, 00, \ ; Record (CTRL+R)
20, 00,00,00, 52, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Up (UP ARROW)
21, 00,00,00, 51, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Down (DOWN ARROW)
22, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
23, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
24, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
25, 00,00,00, 82, 00, 04, 00, \ ; Power Off / Sleep (SLEEP)
26, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
27, 00,00,00, B4, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Rewind (CTRL+SHIFT+B)
28, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
29, 00,00,00, 2a, 00, 01, 00, \ ; Back (ESC/BACKSPACE)
2A, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
2B, 00,00,00, 43, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Volume Down (F9)
2C, 00,00,00, 42, 00, 01, 01, \ ; Volume Up (F10)
2D, 00,00,00, B6, 00, 02, 01, \ ; Pointer = Skip Back (CTRL+B)
2E, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
2F, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
30, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
31, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
32, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
33, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
34, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
35, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
36, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
37, 00,00,00, 00, 00, 00, 00, \ ;
38, 00,00,00, 17, F1, 01, 00 ; AV/TV = Live TV (CTRL+T)
"Custom Key Mapping"="57 Key Table"
"Driver Source"="ATI Catalyst v10.4"
"Registration"="Micuesoft"
; NOTES:
;
; 04 = My Radio (CTRL+A)
; 07 = My Movies (CTRL+D)
; 08 = My Videos (CTRL+E)
; 0A = TV Guide (CTRL+G)
; 0C = My Pictures (CTRL+I)
; 10 = My Music (CTRL+M)
; 17 = My TV (CTRL+T)
;
; Byte 1|8 = Remote Button
; Byte 2|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 3|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 4|8 = Always Zero
; Byte 5|8 = Command Code
; Byte 6|8 = Modifier (F1 = CTRL+ ?) (F3 = CTRL+SHIFT+ ?)
; Byte 7|8 = Modifier
; Byte 8|8 = Modifier (Command Type ?)
;
; This Page has technical info on remote command data.
; "Using Remote Control Input Outside of Windows Media Center"
; http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb417079.aspx
[END]
Wednesday, 22 June 2011
Facebook sucks.. and Twitter sucks even more !
Well i go to see my facebook page today and ofcourse i've been logged out..
Then i try click on anything and all i get is steaming pile of loading icon.
Facebook is gay load of bullshit !
And the day i ever see or click on a twitter link is the day hell freezes over.
i won't be Tweeting anything ever. (because i am not a gay douche)
Then i try click on anything and all i get is steaming pile of loading icon.
Facebook is gay load of bullshit !
And the day i ever see or click on a twitter link is the day hell freezes over.
i won't be Tweeting anything ever. (because i am not a gay douche)
How to fix a Logitech MX3000 Lazer Mouse for free
I will begin by saying that i had bought a Logitech MX3000 Mouse / Keyboard Combo package from Futureshop a couple years ago for around $100 Can.
The mouse and keyboard is awesome ! This was my first Laser mouse and
i was impressed by the difference compared to optical mice,
especialy when it came time to play FPS games :)
Sadly eventualy i started to have weird problems with my mouse.
Although i have never had any problem with the keyboard at all.
The mouse started double clicking when i was single clicking on me
and i tried everything imaginable to fix the problem and nothing worked.
After a year of the clicking problem getting worse on and off
i finally broke down one day and went to Wallmart and
bought a cheap Logitech optical mouse for $15.
I notice right away the poor performance of this new mouse right away.
no matter what surface i put it it on it seemed sketchy and weird.
And my old laser mouse would work flawlessly on ANY surface.
So after struggling through the night with my new mouse i decided to return it
and then i had any idea :)
I took apart the new mouse and my old mouse and compared the micro switches
and they were a match. muahhaa
So out comes the soldering iron :)
Since i already completed this project about 2 months ago i can not
post any pictures of the repair process. But its fairly simple to do..
Un screw the plastic covers with a philips screw driver etc.
The key is to heat up one side of the pins and jump to the other side
so you can slowly rock back and forth the pins out to remove the switches
I did use flux strips and flux acid paste to clean the holes out before i put
the switches back on the circuit board and then used new solder.
The last step of the proccess is putting the new mouse back together with
the faulty micro switches and putting the mouse back in the retail packaging
and returning it back to Wallmart with your receipt for a full refund lol
So after a couple months i havn't had one single problem with my mouse :)
I love my mouse and i don't want another one, i want what i already have to work !
I hope this can help someone else out there.
It may not be obvious that weird activity can simply be a faulty mouse.
And good luck getting any support from logitech over at their forums
this is a common problem and in many years of complaints they have yet
to acknowledge there is any problem to the general public..
The mouse and keyboard is awesome ! This was my first Laser mouse and
i was impressed by the difference compared to optical mice,
especialy when it came time to play FPS games :)
Sadly eventualy i started to have weird problems with my mouse.
Although i have never had any problem with the keyboard at all.
The mouse started double clicking when i was single clicking on me
and i tried everything imaginable to fix the problem and nothing worked.
After a year of the clicking problem getting worse on and off
i finally broke down one day and went to Wallmart and
bought a cheap Logitech optical mouse for $15.
I notice right away the poor performance of this new mouse right away.
no matter what surface i put it it on it seemed sketchy and weird.
And my old laser mouse would work flawlessly on ANY surface.
So after struggling through the night with my new mouse i decided to return it
and then i had any idea :)
I took apart the new mouse and my old mouse and compared the micro switches
and they were a match. muahhaa
So out comes the soldering iron :)
Since i already completed this project about 2 months ago i can not
post any pictures of the repair process. But its fairly simple to do..
Un screw the plastic covers with a philips screw driver etc.
The key is to heat up one side of the pins and jump to the other side
so you can slowly rock back and forth the pins out to remove the switches
I did use flux strips and flux acid paste to clean the holes out before i put
the switches back on the circuit board and then used new solder.
The last step of the proccess is putting the new mouse back together with
the faulty micro switches and putting the mouse back in the retail packaging
and returning it back to Wallmart with your receipt for a full refund lol
So after a couple months i havn't had one single problem with my mouse :)
I love my mouse and i don't want another one, i want what i already have to work !
I hope this can help someone else out there.
It may not be obvious that weird activity can simply be a faulty mouse.
And good luck getting any support from logitech over at their forums
this is a common problem and in many years of complaints they have yet
to acknowledge there is any problem to the general public..
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